Season Five of The Crown debuts this week, covering the ’90s-era decline of the marriage between Princess Diana and Prince Charles as well as, arguably, the most influential fashion era of Diana’s life. For each of the ten episodes, we will recap the fashion of the show, focusing in particular on Diana and her obsession with offering messages and stories through her clothes, with digressions on the Duchess of Windsor, the late Queen, and other royal style icons portrayed on the series.

Seeing Elizabeth Debicki in her first scene as Princess Diana in the fifth season of The Crown, which debuts on Netflix today, might cause you to gasp. In just the past two years, we’ve seen Kristen Stewart doing an Oscar-nominated keep-your-chin-up-and-pout and Emma Corrin masterfully conjuring the woeful naivete of the People’s Princess in The Crown’s previous season, but Debicki’s physical resemblance is the most striking. She has the fluffed short hair, chopped sportier than the feathered waves worn last season by Emma Corrin; she has the too-heavy blue eyeliner on her lower lids; she’s got that voice that’s soft and delicate like meringue but snobby and thick like clotted cream. Debicki even shares Diana’s beautiful slightly bird-like nose. And she’s alarmingly excellent at pulling her face down and gazing up, looking at once skeptical and vulnerable, which is a pose Diana would exaggerate to glorious effect in a notorious 1995 TV interview with Martin Bashir.

But…