Paris Fashion Week feels like it’s finally in full swing—and Saint Laurent’s show is always one that feels decadently Parisian, taking place each year beneath the glittering lights of the Eiffel Tower. This season, the label hosted a more intimate presentation than in seasons past, and gleaned inspiration directly from the archives, with incredibly chic twists. Here’s everything you need to know about the Saint Laurent spring 2023 show.

The Show Took Inspiration From House Codes

If there was one element that defined Saint Laurent’s entire spring 2023 collection, it was the silky, tubular hood that came elegantly attached to nearly every single look. According to the fashion house, the image has appeared in its archives over and over again, from the chiffon dresses made in collaboration with Claude Lalanne in 1969 to the slinky fabric hoods of the label’s haute couture 1985 collection, and even Yves Saint Laurent’s final show for his namesake brand in fall 2002. It’s probably most recognized as being associated with the hooded “capuche” pieces from the mid-1980s. The chic additional is definitely an iconic look that has permeated pop culture throughout the years, even beyond the scope of Saint Laurent (think: Grace Jones and Martha Graham).