Grab your parasols and aviation goggles! Steampunk might be considered untouchable now, but the pace at which trends are being regurgitated means that anything is possible
By now, we’re all familiar with the relentless cycle of trends that are infiltrating the internet – and our minds. FromY2K to Indie Sleaze, we’ve experienced an endless rehashing of old aesthetics repackaged in TikTok-friendly formats and hailed by online commentators as the Next Big Thing. With the mid-aughts making a comeback in terms of indie music, Tumblr aesthetics and the emo revival, we find ourselves thinking: what’s next?
To answer that question, we need to dial back to a time when technology, and its advancement, felt like it had real revolutionary potential. As capitalism swallows itself and any chance of a future beyond it, it’s easy to feel like the Future = Bad. But this doesn’t get to the root of our collective angst, nor does it help us move forward. Perhaps what we need is something so based and cringe that we can’t help but put our obsession with the past to bed – a nail in the coffin, if you will.
As one of the last remaining 2010s subcultures to not be put through the cultural ringer, steampunk should be set to make a return in our nostalgia economy, but why hasn’t it? The hashtag #steampunk currently has 460 million views on TikTok, so there’s clearly a growing interest, with users showing off images of coal-powered flying boats and…
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It’s Britney Spears return day! And just like our favourite twirling pop star who’s been teasing us with new music for a while and has now finally delivered, the AW22 collections we coveted when we saw them go down the runway are now making themselves available for us to purchase (one wait was six years and the other was six months, but you get the point). And with the collections, of course, comes some breathtaking campaign visuals. There’s an Oscar-worthy Gucci moment, Burberry’s spotlighting of community and Dior Men transcending time. We hear you screaming gimme more though and so there’s also an exciting new Browns exclusive, Courrèges x David Sims and an Adidas sneaker from Parisian-brand Song for the Mute. Here’s what’s in fashion.
Images courtesy of Gucci
Gucci hacks Kubrick for its exquisite campaign
Fashion and film are, of course, old bedfellows, but there are few houses quite as obsessed with the world as seen on the big screen as Gucci. An avid cinephile, Alessandro Michele’s work has always been imbued with a transformative, cinematic quality — a sense that his clothes are designed to elevate their wearers above prosaic normality; to cast them as characters in their very own epics. “I’ve always imagined my collections as films able to convey a cinematography of the present: a score of stories, eclectic and dissonant, that can sacralize the human and its metamorphic ability,” he writes in a new release. It’s a fact evident in examples like the seven-part series he created in collaboration with Gus van Sant, Ouverture of Something that Never Ended, and Love Parade, the house’s centenary show on Hollywood Boulevard.
For the campaign for Exquisite Gucci, the collection presented by the house during Milan Fashion Week back in February, Alessandro and the team not only chose to celebrate cinema, but to hack the silver screen, and write the collection into annals of cinematic history itself. A powerful homage to Stanley Kubrick — “A philosophic filmmaker who, better than others, emanated the magic of that inextricable knot through which cinema exudes life and magnifies it,” Alessandro says — it sees some of the most iconic scenes from the “sculptor of genres” most emblematic films — The Shining, 2001: A Space Odyssey, A Clockwork Orange, Eyes Wide Shut and Barry Lyndon — recreated with looks from the collection at their heart.
“Sticking to my creative praxis, I seized those movies,…
When Beyoncé wrote the lyric “it should cost a billion to look this good”, there’s no doubt she was referring to Christine Quinn in a frayed denim Balmain minidress and a french fry handbag, causing drama on Selling Sunset. Over five seasons the villainness with a high-end wardrobe and an even higher ponytail has brought all the fashion and entertainment to the million-dollar-house-selling reality series. Sadly, though, it has been reported her time on the show has come to an end.
Let’s tell it like it is. We weren’t tuning in to see brokers ringing a bell when their property is in escrow (we’re still not even quite sure what that word means). No, we were there to watch Christine roll her eyes at them when they did. We watched for the ASMR of her acrylic nails tapping absolutely nothing work-related into her Macbook, or the chaotically-themed open houses she threw — which we half-suspect were purely organised so that she could expense botox, couture and caviar (we would too!). We watched for her turning up to the office to wreak havoc in the relationships and friendships of her colleagues wearing trompe l’oeil naked bodysuits, Bratz doll heels and head-to-toe Chanel.
But while she may not be returning to the Netflix series, a few Fashion Week appearances over the recent seasons – and becoming a Balenciaga babe – suggest we’re sure to see many more iconic looks from Christine Quinn, this time on the runway or sitting front row, rather than a Beverly Hills listing. Nonetheless, here are some of our favourite chaotic evil queen’s best fashion moments thus far.
‘Selling Sunset’, Season 1 Episode 8, 2019
Christine has a habit of showing up anyone who dares to stand within a 10 ft radius of her. Case in point, this time she casually strutted through LA traffic in this patchwork animal print leotard alongside a pair of skin-tight sheer lace trousers that made Mary look like she’d pulled on her white playsuit straight out of a Shein package.
‘Selling Sunset’, Season 3 Episode 3, 2020
This moto-chic look is cute and fashion forward, but what we’re really here for is the never-ending, floor-scraping ponytail. Christine makes fashion look so easy. If that was us we would have already tripped down the stairs twice and our tresses would be knotted with street litter, a stray cat and cigarette butts.
On her wedding day, 2020
Resplendent with gothic opulence, Christine Quinn’s wedding was the stuff of Wednesday…
It’s cool to dress like an unwashed urchin, emerging from the landfill of consumer culture like a blabbering Minion
Trends are dead! Long live trends! People don’t know what to wear! But wear this! TikTok trends are fake! But not Indie Sleaze! Blokecore! Barbiecore! Namecore! [email protected]!!!
This is what happens when you spend too much time on websites, where the language of trend reporting has completely buckled in on itself. In April, fashion critic Rachel Tashijan described the whole thing as a “mass psychosis”, citing the internet’s feverish attempt to funnel algorithmic junk into deep and meaningful categories. This isn’t a particularly new phenomenon – magazines have always made outsized statements about fashion fads – it’s just that they are now competing with thinkfluencers, TikTok essayists, and Substackers to coin phrases like “Vibe Shift” in order to cash-out on clicks and send 30-something Twitter into a meltdown. Trend, and fashion more generally, is about so much more than being the first to identify the next big thing – which is almost always a mirage, fading as quickly as it’s labelled.
The real issue is that people seem to have forgotten what the word “trend” actually means, how it moves with and against culture, creating networks of taste and ideology. This can be hard to distinguish when there’s just so much culture happening at once, but in London, young people are beginning to clamber out of the chaotic consumer landscape: grubby scene kids and ragtag meme-merchants living on a diet of Elf bars, Monster, and SoundCloud rap. Musicians like Luke Blovad, designers like James Wallace who treat Minions as muses, tacking their turgid little bodies onto all-swamping hoodies. Teens adorned with Eurotrash truckers, wraparound sunnies, anthropomorphic plushie-hats, airbrushed sweaters, camouflage mini skirts, sharpied jeans, and Spongebob tees. They are the feral love children of Chief Keef and Trisha Paytas, destined for greatness but slumped into a barbiturate haze in front of South Park.
“My style is meta-ironic, ketamine chic, Pinterest vibes,” says @oatmilkandcodeine. “Truthfully, I don’t think about it that much but I feel like it’s about making what is traditionally seen as ugly appealing”. A stew of early web references, thrifted grunge, lowbrow cartoon characters, and “anything obnoxious or fake is always good,” @babydoublecup says. “I’ll find…
Driven by a host of rebel cultures emerging in the 70s, London was poised to redefine global pop culture in the decade to follow. The 80s saw the proliferation of homegrown styles like punk, glam, mods, 2Tone, rockabilly, skins and suedes — youth culture was cresting at its greatest height since the Swinging 60s took the world by storm. But this time, it had been sharpened to a razor-sharp edge that came from surviving the 1970s, and knowing that you were truly on your own in the world.
No longer bound by respectability politics that had dominated British society for centuries, youth stood proudly against the status quo. Defying decorum, they embraced anarchy and androgyny alike, transgressing the boundaries of gender expression far before the word “fluid” came into vogue. New Romantic dandies, post-punk peacocks and glamorous goths alike preened themselves on the streets while artists like Grace Jones, Annie Lennox, and Pete Burns paraded through homes in that new-fangled medium known as the music video. With the explosion of visual culture, music and fashion would never be the same.
The Ace Brixton
Halfway around the globe in Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, Jane Simon devoured NME every week, keeping her abreast of the latest developments in the UK music scene. As a teen, Jane got a job writing commercials at rock music radio station 5KA and caught artists like The Police, The Stranglers, and Elvis Costello when they came to town, as well as local punk bands like Radio Birdman. “The underground scene in Adelaide was very small,” Jane says. “I was very into the music: it was new and exciting, and everyone was outraged by it. That was great!”
But in her heart, Jane knew that she was missing out. Then one night, everything changed. The editor of a local music paper had just returned from a trip to London, and Jane gave him a lift home. In the car, he regaled her with tales walking down the Kings Road and bumping into Paul Simonon of the Clash and Chrissie Hynde of the Pretenders. “I just said to him, ‘Oh Donald, you’re so full of shit. I could do that!’” she says. “So I went out the next day, bought a plane ticket, and came to London.”
Kensington Market
Jane, then 20, arrived in the UK with just £200 and her mother’s coat in hand. “I thought I’d be in London for six months — and I’m still here,” she says. After staying a couple of weeks at a Bayswater hostel, Jane rented a room in a house up the New…
Ronnie Spector was the original “bad girl of rock and roll.” Throughout the 60s, the Harlem-born vocalist rose to international prominence as one-third of The Ronettes, alongside her sister Estelle and cousin Nedra. And, together, the trio dominated the decade’s rock landscape. In 1963, the group’s infectious pop single “Be My Baby” rose to the top of the Billboard charts, inspiring Beach Boys founder Brian Wilson, in the process. By 1966, The Ronettes were opening for The Beatles. (Two years prior, The Ronettes had hired The Rolling Stones as their opening act). To say that Ronnie was the frontwoman of the 60s would be an understatement, to say the least.
Like The Ronettes’ R&B-pop sound, Ronnie’s (and her bandmates’) style epitomized the glam-garçonne look of the era. Think boxy pantsuits, glitzy wiggle dresses, bouffants and a winged cat-eye. Today, Ronnie and The Ronettes’ fashion choices reverberate through pop culture. Alongside The Supremes, they also set the standard for girl group dressing. At the turn-of-the-millennium, we saw reflections of the group’s coordinated ensembles in the wardrobes of TLC and Destiny’s Child. In the aughts, we gleaned Ronnie’s iconic beehive ‘do (and tough-yet-tender vocals) in the likes of Amy Winehouse. Here, in celebration of what would have been Ronnie’s 79th birthday, we look back on the late R&B legend’s most iconic outfits of all time.
Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images
With The Ronettes, 1963
Ronnie grew up in Manhattan’s Washington Heights where she spent her childhood singing with her sister Estelle and cousin Nedra at family gatherings. By the late 50s, the trio founded the group that would become The Ronettes, performing at local bar mitzvahs and sock hops before securing a residency at New York’s Peppermint Lounge (the storied birthplace of the Twist) and signing with Philles Records. Here, the year of signing their star-making record deal, the group are photographed in their signature flanked pose wearing a trifecta of cropped, doubled-breasted pantsuits, typical of the era’s Mod style.
Photo by Gilles Petard/Redferns
With The Ronettes, 1964
Along with their Mod wardrobe, The Ronettes were known for their signature beauty look: thick, black cat eyeliner. Since the group’s heyday, the look has become a signifier of rock-and-roll cachet and, over the years, has been adopted by the likes of icons Françoise Hardy, Alexa Chung and Amy Winehouse.
Happy Monday! The new week is here and with it comes the chance to delve deep into some fresh culture and fashion. Here’s your latest look at the i-D Guide.
Wear… Kenzo’s Urban Uniforms for AW22
Under the creative helm of Nigo, Kenzo is giving us classy Urban Uniforms for AW22. Their latest drop, in stores and online now, is like Harajuku street style meets the wears of 1960s French students at the forefront of revolution. Think cable-knit everything, gorgeous denim utilitarian wear, and flower power to the fucking max. Buy it all here.
Snag… Byredo’s new flavoured lip balms
Here’s the dilemma: good lip balms are effective, but their formula rarely puts flavour at the fore. Flavoured lip balms taste good, but they’re usually stuffed with inexplicable nasties to make them so. So thank god Byredo have managed to make a killer crossover product: a flavoured lip balm that does the job and tastes good, all while being free of endocrine disruptors and pesticides. They come in three flavours — Thé à la Menthe d’Agadir, Bergamotte de Bahia and Camomille d’Anjou — and are available to buy now, either directly from Byredo.com or in store, or on the Selfridges website.
At Water by Seth Fluker
Harbouring a new collection of images by photographer Seth Fluker, At Water is a limited edition zine that captures water in its varying moods and states. Shot across several continents, from Seth’s home country of Canada to Japan, it highlights water’s volatile behaviour. It’s available now from its publisher Hassla Books in a limited run of 300. Buy it here.
Watch… Girl Picture
The winner of the World Cinema Audience Award at this year’s Sundance Film Festival, the Finnish movie Girl Picture is a spin on the plights of coming-of-age as a teenage girl. Two best friends, Mimmi and Rönkkö are inseparable, working together at a smoothie stand after school. They share their own woes of what it’s like to explore love and sex during adolescence — but their two paths are totally unique. While Mimmi is besotted by a girl she knows, Rönkkö is keen to explore the wilder side of life. Girl Picture hits limited US theatres on 12 August, and will be released in the UK later this year.
Read… None of the Above by Travis Alabanza
It’s been a trailblazing few years for trans voices in literature (Detransition Baby, Nevada’s resurrection), but the immense power of British non-fiction focusing on trans existence is particularly…
Of course, no matter what side of the pond you’re on, you were already going to spend your weekend perusing the installations and rails at Dover Street Market. But if, for some godforsaken reason you weren’t, make sure you change your plans instantly! From AW22 collections hitting the London space to rare 90s and 00s vintage pieces taking over the NYC store — DSM is the place to be! In more fashion news, Valentino have announced their new DiVas, Priya Ahluwalia directed a film, LUAR have a secret pop up shop coming, the LOEWE Craft Prize 2023 applications are open and Katya Zelentsova has launched her AW22 line. It’s been a busy week! Here’s what’s in fashion.
Image courtesy of Dover Street Market
Shop the new collections at DSM London….
Yes, we know that the height of summer isn’t really when you want to turn your thoughts to the cooler climes on the horizon, but if there’s one good reason to get excited about the fact that autumn’s just around the corner, it’s this: Dover Street Market’s seasonal renewal! Yes, though it feels like just yesterday that we watched the AW22 shows parade down the runways, they’re finally hitting London’s chicest shop floor. Of course, you’ll find full drops of the latest collections from brands within the Comme family, but that’s not all! You’ll find exclusives from the likes of Gucci and Palace, and new labels like young British label Rabbit. If there’s one thing in particular that we’d pick out as a total must-cop from the new haul of goodies arriving at the Haymarket style emporium, it’s without doubt this exclusive version of Kiko Kostadinov’s instantly iconic Trivia bag. Rendered in glossy, glittery fuchsia leather, it’s the perfect bag for the seasonal transition, bringing poppy flair to Laura and Deanna Fanning’s deliciously warped baguette. Run down to get yours before they’re gone! MS
…and cop a piece of fashion history at DSM New York!
While they’re bringing the new over at the London branch of Dover Street Market, this weekend at the New York outpost, it’s all about celebrating the old. In a truly one-of-a-kind event, the Midtown concept store will host a sale of pieces collected over the past two decades by one of fashion’s most esteemed archivists: David Casavant. The owner of some of the most coveted menswear pieces in recent fashion history — think early Raf Simons bombers, late 00s Prada full looks — he’s earned a reputation as the man…
It feels like just yesterday that we were gearing up for another Oscar season. The Power of the Dog; Spencer; the ill-fated, yet iconic House of Gucci awards campaign — 2021 was a real one for movies gunning for glory. Well, guess what, bitches? We’re back again! As the movies of 2022 segue from blockbuster season and into the chin-strokey auteur final months of the year, they are arguably getting better. With Venice Film Festival announcing its line-up this week, it looks like these might be the ones we’ll be talking about until the Oscar ceremony next March.
So what do we have here? Darren Aronofsky’s first movie since the divisive Mother!; that adults-only Marilyn Monroe movie; Nan Goldin taking on big pharma; and, most important, a potential two-horse Best Actor race for our kings Timothée Chalamet and Harry Styles. We cannot wait. Without further ado, these are the 10 must-watch movies premiering at Venice Film Festival 2022. Update your watch lists accordingly.
1. The Whale (Darren Aronofsky)
Brendan Fraser’s return to the screen, co-led by Stranger Things star Sadie Sink, sees the beloved actor play a reclusive English teacher “suffering from severe obesity” who is trying to reconnect with his estranged teen daughter. The Whale will be Darren Aronofsky’s first feature as a director since 2017’s Mother!, a theatrical nightmare of a Jennifer Lawrence film that follows a young couple’s descent into domestic hell.
2. Don’t Worry Darling (Olivia Wilde)
From its sexy, creepy teaser trailers, Florence Pugh looks to be the real star of director Olivia Wilde’s sophomore feature — a Stepford Wives-inspired erotic thriller in which a woman named Alice uncovers a terrible, violent secret about the activities of her local community. But it may be her popstar co-lead that cinches his first Oscar nomination, out of a film festival that’s thought of as an Academy Award “launchpad”. Let’s go, Harry Styles supremacy!
MGM/Amazon
3. Bones & All (Luca Guadagnino)
Deep breaths now. The “surprisingly romantic” cannibal film we’ve all been waiting for — move aside, Fresh (2022) — is finally premiering. Call Me by Your Name director Luca Guadagnino reunites with Timothée Chalamet to take us on a very American cross-country road trip. The story follows Taylor Russell as Maren, a young lady with a taste for human meat — especially that of her loved ones — as Timothée’s character Lee helps her work through her daddy…
Happy Beynaissance day hive!! Not to disturb you from your on-repeat listening of the mind-blowing new Beyoncé x A.G. Cook link up but we have some fashion news that will make today even chicer than it already is. From stunning Homecoming merch with the hottest streetwear names and Dior’s AW22 campaign, to an Acne Studios artist collab and Maison Valentino’s next guest designer they’re platforming. There’s also news from Dr Martens, A-Cold-Wall* and GANT, as well as swimwear from icons Rudi Gernreich and Skims to check it out. It’s what Beyoncé would want. Here’s what’s in fashion.
Image courtesy of Rudi Gernreich
Rudi Gernreich is back to dominate the swimwear space
Sit down gen z fashion girlies, it’s history time. So Rudi Gernreich was an iconic Austria-born American fashion designer who paved the way for sexually liberated fashions in the 1960s, especially in regards to swimwear. Cutouts, genderless clothing, transparent ‘No Bras’ and topless monkini’s? He did all that decades before the TikTok algorithm made them popular again. The thong is his biggest impact though, inventing cheek-revealing swimwear in 1974 when LA banned nude beaches that later became a staple shape of many women’s lingerie collections and an iconic fashion moment for 00s celebs looking to make a pair of low-rise jeans sexy. The power that that has (etc). Though he passed away in 1985, the brand continues to live on and has just released a new line of swimwear that pays tribute to his impact. Looking for inspo from their archive, the collection features one shoulder bathing suits with a daring cutout on the abs in lime green, block coloured swimwear with plunging neck lines and sexy side panel-less bikinis showing off your glowing bod. There’s also more classic monkinis and a nod to the original thong by Rudi in a loving tribute. Go find a new vintage designer to stan by checking out the full new collection on the brand’s website. TG
Central Saint Martens students are restyling Dr Martens
Is there any shoe with more Arts student energy than Dr Martens? Pair them with a tote bag, oyster card, chipped nail varnish and a knitted vest from Depop and you could look like a hyper-stressed, underslept 21-year-old speed walking to a 9am lecture. Fully leaning into their uni couture vibes, Dr Martens have paired with one of the most iconic universities of them all, Central Saint Martens. Five of their MA Fashion students – Francesca Lake, Xuesong Yang,
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