Season Five of The Crown debuts this month, covering the ’90s-era decline of the marriage between Princess Diana and Prince Charles as well as, arguably, the most influential fashion era of Diana’s life. For each of the ten episodes, we will recap the fashion of the show, focusing in particular on Diana and her obsession with offering messages and stories through her clothes, with digressions on the Duchess of Windsor, the late Queen, and other royal style icons portrayed on the series. Read the recap of episode one here, and episode two here.

Episode Three of the fifth season of The Crown gives us the origin of one myth and the conclusion of another. The first is of Dodi al Fayed, who would be the last boyfriend of Princess Diana, also losing his life in the 1997 car crash that killed the People’s Princess. The episode is named “Mou Mou” after Dodi’s father Mohammed Al Fayed, and it traces Mou Mou’s obsession with ingratiating himself among the royals, a task he achieves by hiring the former valet to the Duke of Windsor and demanding a ham-fisted makeover montage—lessons in afternoon tea and Savile Row suiting—that would make The Princess Diaries and The Devil Wears Prada sneer.

The other myth this episode tackles: that of the end of Wallis Windsor, née Wallis Simpson, who was, of course, the woman for whom the Duke of Windsor abdicated the British throne (this was all covered way back in Season Three, and also in the excellent 2012 book That Woman). We…