Vivienne Westwood’s Fall ’92 Collection Was All About Marlene Dietrich
, 2022-09-05 13:30:25,
Welcome to Forgotten Runway, a deep dive into some of the more niche presentations in fashion history—which still have an impact to this day. In this new series, writer Kristen Bateman interviews the designers and people who made these productions happen, revealing what made each one so special.
Vivienne Westwood’s fall 1992 runway was filled with fashion muses prancing down the runway, cosplaying as fully animated caricatures of old Hollywood stars. Inside a Paris museum hallway covered in red curtains, the show, titled “Always on Camera,” featured a female air pilot wearing a silver metallic cap and draped trousers, a silver screen starlet in the now-infamous Frans Hals lace-trimmed babyface corset, and mock daytime TV doyennes donning severely tailored suits in pink leopard print with matching, massive, heart-shaped bags. “The inspiration for the show was, clearly, Marlene Dietrich, and the Hollywood, silver-screen era,” Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood’s creative partner and husband of decades who co-designed the collection, tells W. “She is one of the most outstanding movie actresses in terms of the image she created for herself—very much so with the help of her director in the beginning, Josef von Sternberg, who pushed her appearance to an extreme. I don’t think we have ever seen something like that since.”
“Always on Camera,” though not often talked about as much as some of…
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